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Any weekend tweaks?
#11
    Sorry for the delay! One of my local audio buddies dropped by just as I was rehanging the 200 on the wall and wanted to give a listen to a couple CD's he brought. I told him he was welcome but would have to endure warm up. He jumped right in.

Have I mentioned my memory is like a steel sieve? Almost nothing was as I remembered. I musta dreamed it or been completely immersed in swapping out speaker binding posts last time The so called drip pan was there but actually quite nicely made and from aluminum tho formed on a metal brake and certainly not CNC'd. And it was mounted opposite of what I remembered. Some of those other (I thought) CNC'd pieces inside are actually cast... win some/lose some. The pan in question is there to cover & shield a largish PCB that attaches to the inside of the bottom cover between the two inspection windows. A non-hardening adhesive has been used to affix it and it migrates a thin fil of oil you'll see in subsequent pics. The bottom cover itself is cast aluminum if anyone was wondering (I was!) and I'm convinced its powder coated rather than painted as there's a tell-tale small uncoated bare spot that would make the perfect wire hanging corner for the powder coating conveyer application/dryer system. I've seen those bare wire spots before on about everything I've had powder coated.

Pore over the pic and I'll be back after taking my dog for a round of "chuck-it" and cover the rest...
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
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#12
    This is the pan and not much of a question mark any longer. Even the two oil spots can be explained via the two holes containing a non-hardening/non-curing fixative underneath. Might be some kind of dual-purpose adhesive/heat-transfer fixative on the underside. I can't find any other means of holding the pan in place and while I gave it a reasonable tug while twisting I couldn't free it. Bear in mind I didn't want to try too hard as I have none of that material in-house to replace if the pan came free. My feeling is that oily substance migrates under the heat inside. Quizzically there's also a female RJ45 ethernet jack between the two lower left capacitors you can just see in pic. Probably a diagnostic port but has me wondering hmmmm.
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
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#13
Looks a lot like the drip tray under my barbecue.
                                                    Lifetime Roon, Mac mini, int. SSD, ext. HDD, tv as monitor, key board and track pad on bean bag as remote,Devialet 200, Od'A #097, Blue jeans speaker cable,                                     
                                                                                                                                                                            Dynaudio C1 MkII.
                                                                                                                                                                              Jim Smith's GBS.
                                                                                                                                                                        Northern NSW Australia.
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#14
    Ok, last in series. Last time someone asked if RCA's and/or coax jacks were replaceable like the binding posts. At the time I didn't know for sure but guessed not. Turns out that is correct. These are not only soldered but soldered "thru-the-board" on opposite side of PCB. This means they are installed thru PCB then soldered from the back-side. And that PCB is one of the 1st installed before many others are piled on and all in a very specific order. Lots of parts have to come out before the digital boards! As you can see, I removed the outer retaining nut from the rear access panel on one jack and confirmed they are indeed one-piece and a no-go for easy replacement. Same goes for phono jacks. Replaceable, yes but certainly not within my echelon of warranty-retaining tweaks. Also and identical to the OEM binding posts, 100% of these too proved to be magnetically attracted indicating a heavy nickel plating under the gold. Those planning on a binding post swap later will get a much better idea of fitment from this pic. As I said initially when I did this its a VERY fiddly/fidgetty tight space with little-to-no finger wriggle room for tightening retaining nuts in that small space where they reside behind rear access cover. And those nuts are 'tight' ALL THE WAY ON!! You could do worse than stacking as many plastic washers as will fit between inside access panel wall and nut. Leave just enough threads exposed for nut to be snugged with only ONE full thread protruding out the rear of the nut after tightening. It'll be a L-O-T easier and faster to R&R than running those nuts all the way forward to tight at 1/16 of a turn at a time like I did. You'll thank me BIGTIME for this, 'cept if you do it this way initially you'll never know the nigh-on hour of HELL you avoided! Next time mine are removed it'll be done for sure. Could've done it today but like I said, they're tight all the way on which also means they're also tight all the way off and I was in a hurry to get back to listening. If I ever have to return the unit to Devialet again it'll be done for sure after it comes back.
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
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#15
(26-Jul-2015, 00:34)Manoet Wrote: Ok, last in series. Last time someone asked if RCA's and/or coax jacks were replaceable like the binding posts. At the time I didn't know for sure but guessed not. Turns out that is correct. These are not only soldered but soldered "thru-the-board" on opposite side of PCB. This means they are installed thru PCB then soldered from the back-side. And that PCB is one of the 1st installed before many others are piled on and all in a very specific order. Lots of parts have to come out before the digital boards! As you can see, I removed the outer retaining nut from the rear access panel on one jack and confirmed they are indeed one-piece and a no-go for easy replacement. Same goes for phono jacks. Replaceable, yes but certainly not within my echelon of warranty-retaining tweaks. Also and identical to the OEM binding posts, 100% of these too proved to be magnetically attracted indicating a heavy nickel plating under the gold. Those planning on a binding post swap later will get a much better idea of fitment from this pic. As I said initially when I did this its a VERY fiddly/fidgetty tight space with little-to-no finger wriggle room for tightening retaining nuts in that small space where they reside behind rear access cover. And those nuts are 'tight' ALL THE WAY ON!! You could do worse than stacking as many plastic washers as will fit between inside access panel wall and nut. Leave just enough threads exposed for nut to be snugged with only ONE full thread protruding out the rear of the nut after tightening. It'll be a L-O-T easier and faster to R&R than running those nuts all the way forward to tight at 1/16 of a turn at a time like I did. You'll thank me BIGTIME for this, 'cept if you do it this way initially you'll never know the nigh-on hour of HELL you avoided! Next time mine are removed it'll be done for sure. Could've done it today but like I said, they're tight all the way on which also means they're also tight all the way off and I was in a hurry to get back to listening. If I ever have to return the unit to Devialet again it'll be done for sure after it comes back.

I'm a guitar tech and use one of these for nuts on pots, switches etc.  Maybe this could this be used to undo/tighten the nuts that hold the WBTs? It's certainly the right size. 
   
Project Eperience X Pack with Ortofon Rondo Red MC, Oppo BDP 105D, 2 x Sonos Connect, QNAP HS251+ NAS with 2 X 6TB Western Digital Red, Mac 5K 32GB running Lifetime Roon, iPad Pro 12.9" for remote control.  Etalon Ethernet Isolator, Devialet 440 Pro CI, Sonus faber Olympica ll with Isoacoustics Gaia ll feet, Auralic Taurus Mkll headphone amp.Denon AH-D5000, Sennheiser HD600 and HD800 with Cardas cable,  Van Den Hul The First Ultimate and Crystal interconnects, Furutech power cables, GSP Audio Spatia speaker cable.
South Coast England
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#16
(26-Jul-2015, 16:32)Axel Wrote:
(26-Jul-2015, 00:34)Manoet Wrote: Ok, last in series. Last time someone asked if RCA's and/or coax jacks were replaceable like the binding posts. At the time I didn't know for sure but guessed not. Turns out that is correct. These are not only soldered but soldered "thru-the-board" on opposite side of PCB. This means they are installed thru PCB then soldered from the back-side. And that PCB is one of the 1st installed before many others are piled on and all in a very specific order. Lots of parts have to come out before the digital boards! As you can see, I removed the outer retaining nut from the rear access panel on one jack and confirmed they are indeed one-piece and a no-go for easy replacement. Same goes for phono jacks. Replaceable, yes but certainly not within my echelon of warranty-retaining tweaks. Also and identical to the OEM binding posts, 100% of these too proved to be magnetically attracted indicating a heavy nickel plating under the gold. Those planning on a binding post swap later will get a much better idea of fitment from this pic. As I said initially when I did this its a VERY fiddly/fidgetty tight space with little-to-no finger wriggle room for tightening retaining nuts in that small space where they reside behind rear access cover. And those nuts are 'tight' ALL THE WAY ON!! You could do worse than stacking as many plastic washers as will fit between inside access panel wall and nut. Leave just enough threads exposed for nut to be snugged with only ONE full thread protruding out the rear of the nut after tightening. It'll be a L-O-T easier and faster to R&R than running those nuts all the way forward to tight at 1/16 of a turn at a time like I did. You'll thank me BIGTIME for this, 'cept if you do it this way initially you'll never know the nigh-on hour of HELL you avoided! Next time mine are removed it'll be done for sure. Could've done it today but like I said, they're tight all the way on which also means they're also tight all the way off and I was in a hurry to get back to listening. If I ever have to return the unit to Devialet again it'll be done for sure after it comes back.

I'm a guitar tech and use one of these for nuts on pots, switches etc.  Maybe this could this be used to undo/tighten the nuts that hold the WBTs? It's certainly the right size. 

Hi Axel,

Looks like a very useful gadget, where did it come from?

David
1. NUC6i5SYH running ROON ROCK > ROON/AIR > Ethernet > Devialet 1000pro Core Infinity> Wilson-Benesch ACT Speakers,
or, as alternative, 
2. Wyred4Sound MS-2 Server, Devialet 1000pro Core Infinity, Theta Jade CD Transport, Pure 702ES Tuner, Wilson-Benesch ACT Speakers, misc cables

                                       UK
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#17
Going back to the fluid on the 'tray', I noticed this on mine at the start if this year. Below is a not so good picture of it. I never really did get a satisfactory answer on what it was. I think it was thought to be the blue heatsink pad 'sweating' a little with heat. They weren't too concerned about it but cleaned it up. Thing is the blue heatsink pad is on top of the Class D board which fits in the tray, and the fluid looks like it's coming up through the holes which are on the other side of the board.
Incidentally on the 200 at least the blue heatsink pad sticking to the plastic base of the unit and taking off the Class D board when you remove the base is very common. I was told recently by a Devialet rep that it's important that the blue pad doesn't have air bubbles on contact with the board though as this can be detrimental to cooling.

[Image: 1662oPi.jpg]
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#18
Rufus, I'm confused. The baby blue fixative visible in each of the holes under the pan appear to be some sort of non or semi hardening fixative either exclusively for adherence or a combination heat-transfer and adhesive. I poked at it a bit with a toothpick thru both holes and can find no evidence of a fabric or other type of 'connective' matrix that could be considered a a die-cut or stamped 'pad' but rather just a semi-solid paste or putty-like substance that migrates an oily film under heat sway from the holes in top of pan. Also curious your base is plastic as my 200 base is definitely cast aluminum alloy as visible from the 4 outer screw mounting pad mating points between upper/lower halves which have had the powder coating ground off flat for ground continuity between upper/lower halves between the 4 outer mounting screws. There's also that shiney spot I mentioned above on the underside of the bottom cover where a wire was attached during powder coating. If yours is plastic I'm curious when that change occurred. Are you positive about that? Plastic would be a GIANT leap backwards temp & RFI/EMI leakage-wise... especially with the D-board sitting directly on it. My cellphone would ring constantly if within 1-1.5 meters of a plastic cover... BTDT!
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
Reply
#19
(26-Jul-2015, 17:14)brit Wrote:
(26-Jul-2015, 16:32)Axel Wrote:
(26-Jul-2015, 00:34)Manoet Wrote: Ok, last in series. Last time someone asked if RCA's and/or coax jacks were replaceable like the binding posts. At the time I didn't know for sure but guessed not. Turns out that is correct. These are not only soldered but soldered "thru-the-board" on opposite side of PCB. This means they are installed thru PCB then soldered from the back-side. And that PCB is one of the 1st installed before many others are piled on and all in a very specific order. Lots of parts have to come out before the digital boards! As you can see, I removed the outer retaining nut from the rear access panel on one jack and confirmed they are indeed one-piece and a no-go for easy replacement. Same goes for phono jacks. Replaceable, yes but certainly not within my echelon of warranty-retaining tweaks. Also and identical to the OEM binding posts, 100% of these too proved to be magnetically attracted indicating a heavy nickel plating under the gold. Those planning on a binding post swap later will get a much better idea of fitment from this pic. As I said initially when I did this its a VERY fiddly/fidgetty tight space with little-to-no finger wriggle room for tightening retaining nuts in that small space where they reside behind rear access cover. And those nuts are 'tight' ALL THE WAY ON!! You could do worse than stacking as many plastic washers as will fit between inside access panel wall and nut. Leave just enough threads exposed for nut to be snugged with only ONE full thread protruding out the rear of the nut after tightening. It'll be a L-O-T easier and faster to R&R than running those nuts all the way forward to tight at 1/16 of a turn at a time like I did. You'll thank me BIGTIME for this, 'cept if you do it this way initially you'll never know the nigh-on hour of HELL you avoided! Next time mine are removed it'll be done for sure. Could've done it today but like I said, they're tight all the way on which also means they're also tight all the way off and I was in a hurry to get back to listening. If I ever have to return the unit to Devialet again it'll be done for sure after it comes back.

I'm a guitar tech and use one of these for nuts on pots, switches etc.  Maybe this could this be used to undo/tighten the nuts that hold the WBTs? It's certainly the right size. 

Hi Axel,

Looks like a very useful gadget, where did it come from?

David

Hi David,

I picked it up from a luthier supplier years ago, but you can still get them on eBay. Just look under guitar tools.

Cheers,

Al.
Project Eperience X Pack with Ortofon Rondo Red MC, Oppo BDP 105D, 2 x Sonos Connect, QNAP HS251+ NAS with 2 X 6TB Western Digital Red, Mac 5K 32GB running Lifetime Roon, iPad Pro 12.9" for remote control.  Etalon Ethernet Isolator, Devialet 440 Pro CI, Sonus faber Olympica ll with Isoacoustics Gaia ll feet, Auralic Taurus Mkll headphone amp.Denon AH-D5000, Sennheiser HD600 and HD800 with Cardas cable,  Van Den Hul The First Ultimate and Crystal interconnects, Furutech power cables, GSP Audio Spatia speaker cable.
South Coast England
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#20
I think the blue is indeed a heat transfer material. Some type of foam. Here you can see it in the D-Premier/D250 (not my picture). It connects directly to the bottom cover plate (aluminum) in a 250.

http://s632.photobucket.com/user/ghtoz/m...8.jpg.html
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The Netherlands
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