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Devialet on the wall
#41
(29-Aug-2015, 19:47)f1eng Wrote:
(22-Aug-2015, 11:34)Hifi_swlon Wrote:  Thing is, my living room is my listening room, and there's no way to accommodate any changes really, so its already fighting suspended wooden floors, hard surfaces but with a few soft furnishings like sofa/chairs, no doubt all in the wrong places - that's London houses for normal people.

IME the biggest thing hurting sound quality is the design fashion of modern rooms. The most important part of getting a good sound is the room and the speaker and listener positions in it. Loads of hard surfaces for harsh reflections and often no carpet will never sound good. You can spend a million pounds on a hifi and it will still be imperfect if the room is bare and the speaker position has to be compromised.
One thing I have found helps in reflective rooms with brightish speakers is to toe in the speakers so much that their axis crosses well in front to you. This reduces wall reflections and keeps you off the tweeter axis.

In the case of the remote (not the app the rotary volume control) I have had no problems vertically mounted. I don't know exactly how it works, but it does not use wifi (the remote worked fine before wifi was added and the hardware supplied)

I'm sure I read a post somewhere that said they worked on RF.
Project Eperience X Pack with Ortofon Rondo Red MC, Oppo BDP 105D, 2 x Sonos Connect, QNAP HS251+ NAS with 2 X 6TB Western Digital Red, Mac 5K 32GB running Lifetime Roon, iPad Pro 12.9" for remote control.  Etalon Ethernet Isolator, Devialet 440 Pro CI, Sonus faber Olympica ll with Isoacoustics Gaia ll feet, Auralic Taurus Mkll headphone amp.Denon AH-D5000, Sennheiser HD600 and HD800 with Cardas cable,  Van Den Hul The First Ultimate and Crystal interconnects, Furutech power cables, GSP Audio Spatia speaker cable.
South Coast England
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#42
(29-Aug-2015, 19:47)f1eng Wrote:
(22-Aug-2015, 11:34)Hifi_swlon Wrote:  Thing is, my living room is my listening room, and there's no way to accommodate any changes really, so its already fighting suspended wooden floors, hard surfaces but with a few soft furnishings like sofa/chairs, no doubt all in the wrong places - that's London houses for normal people.

IME the biggest thing hurting sound quality is the design fashion of modern rooms. The most important part of getting a good sound is the room and the speaker and listener positions in it. Loads of hard surfaces for harsh reflections and often no carpet will never sound good. You can spend a million pounds on a hifi and it will still be imperfect if the room is bare and the speaker position has to be compromised.
One thing I have found helps in reflective rooms with brightish speakers is to toe in the speakers so much that their axis crosses well in front to you. This reduces wall reflections and keeps you off the tweeter axis.

In the case of the remote (not the app the rotary volume control) I have had no problems vertically mounted. I don't know exactly how it works, but it does not use wifi (the remote worked fine before wifi was added and the hardware supplied)
Thanks F1. Yeah, would love a dedicated listening room but that's just not going to happen any time soon - sadly just have to make the best of what I've got. Extra toe-in's one I've not heard of or tried so definitely putting that one on my list. Might look a bit odd but if it sounds good, I'm in!
Remote-wise (yeah the proper controller), interesting, I thought it was wifi. OK, so even so if its RF maybe just a bit more gap between it and the wall might help.

In any case I'm liking the sound much more this week, but I've tinkered with a few things so can't say for sure what it is:
I've swapped in the new Van Damme (4mm OFC hifi) speaker cables - the brand PMC apparently use (bare wire speaker ends - straight through both terminals removing the links), I've tidied up all the cabling and kept the mains neater and more separated, the mac mini has been plugged into a wall outlet instead of an extension lead, the old speaker cables have all been taken out (they weren't plugged in but were still lurking), and the AQ Jitterbugs have been in for a few days. I also did a round of plugging everything in and out several times, 'Naim style'. One or all of those things has made a positive difference. There's a much more '3d' soundstage for a start.

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#43
Hifi_swlon... Your vertical / remote / alcove issue sounds the same as I had when I initially wall mounted my D200... I eventually discovered that holding the remote vertically i.e. the knob towards you and the bottom of the remote parallel to the D200 makes it work a lot better... hope it works for you
Chord Blu > D200 > Martin Logan Ethos : Saddleworth, England
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#44
Hifi_swlon, how does the 'naim style' to plugging in and out a few times work?
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#45
(31-Aug-2015, 02:28)warpeon Wrote: Hifi_swlon, how does the 'naim style' to plugging in and out a few times work?

Oh sorry to disappoint - it's nothing clever - its just I had Naim system previously and Naim forum chat generally tends to encourage plugging and unplugging all connections several times every year or so to clean the connectors since Naim in general don't use gold coated pins. The same is generally true for all connections, plugs, speakers connections, ICs, USB - if you unplug and replug things, you can get a better/cleaner connection even if they are gold plated or whatever.

That's all I meant. The act of just re-making all the connections has been said to improve SQ for the above reason of making a better contact.

Whether that was the key for me I cant be sure as I did too many things at once.

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#46
As a small update, I just re-mounted my D200 using the proper wall mount instead of a couple of screws, thanks to a very helpful Paul @ hifi lounge.

Having read a few posts I wasn't expecting much from the bracket itself - but i have to say I quite like its design. Apart from maybe the washers which seemed a bit under designed.

It was easy to put up and get straight, and I can now close the lid around the totaldac USB cable, which was my main objective (that box is far too big and heavy imo, and I sent that feedback to Vincent)

As a bonus the remote works perfectly again, I guess that extra gap makes all the difference. Also it's a LOT easier to plug everything in - it was really fiddly before.

Was it worth £160? Probably not really but it saved me faffing with bits of wood etc to do the same thing, and free time's not too abundant right now. I would have hoped for that money a few types of screws would have been included to cover most scenarios - but nothing. I didn't have flat heads so used countersunk but I'll always be thinking the washers are getting pinched so will probably swap them at some point.

Now I just need to make (or more likely have made) a same width/depth wooden cover down to the floor to hide all the cables and make the whole thing look like its a design piece. Magnetic catches so it can be easily removed for access, that's my plan anyway.

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#47
I'm thinking of wall mounting my 1000 Pro, but am stuck with lathe and plaster walls from 1914. Based on the images I've seen of the Devialet wall mounts, it looks like you need something solid behind the four screw points, without any flexibility about where those points can be? I have doubts that wall anchors will be enough for the weight of the Devialet units...
Devialet 1000 Pro Core Infinity, Magico M3, Nordost Frey 2 speaker cable, PS Audio P15 Power Plant, Shunyata Alpha EF AC cable, Mac Mini running ROON.
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#48
Could someone please clarify what type of screws you need to fit the slots under the feet?

I have a spirit level. I can screw 290mm apart. I'd rather not buy an expensive piece of perspex.
220 PRO CI (12.2.6) - B&W 683 S2 - Audioquest Niagara 1000 - Chromecast + iFi SPDIF 
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#49
(05-Feb-2017, 22:54)flohmann Wrote: I'm thinking of wall mounting my 1000 Pro, but am stuck with lathe and plaster walls from 1914. Based on the images I've seen of the Devialet wall mounts, it looks like you need something solid behind the four screw points, without any flexibility about where those points can be? I have doubts that wall anchors will be enough for the weight of the Devialet units...

The big Pros are pretty heavy.
Their mounts have a tiny bit of flexibility with the screw positions, but we're talking mm rather than cm. I found even old uk masonry pretty tricky. But if you can get the screws solidly into larthe the plaster could probably take the weight. Not sure I'd risk it though. You could always just hang an equivalent weight of something a little less shiny and expensive and see?

To be honest I was slightly concerned about the mounting bracket itself. The 200 one had quite a bit of Perspex below the Devialet mounts. The 250 one has barely anything - like a few mm, and was designed for the generation without copper base plate. I asked Devialet and they said it was OK, but I still held my breath as I let go. It's still on the wall anyway.

Before I got the 200 bracket I had it mounted with just two screws. It was rock solid. I just used any I had which would fit - I used countersunk heads but flat would have been better, but didn't have any small enough.

Of course you can't fit stillpoints or the like using their wall bracket. So you get hellish vibrations messing with your sound. Smile

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#50
(26-Apr-2017, 17:50)rchinn Wrote: Could someone please clarify what type of screws you need to fit the slots under the feet?

I have a spirit level. I can screw 290mm apart. I'd rather not buy an expensive piece of perspex.

See above. Yes, it's expensive for a 'piece of Perspex', but it allows a little tolerance for getting straight, and the mounts are all perfectly placed. It's also invisible, and the extra thickness gives better clearance for the cables. I found it quite tricky to plug some things in when I used screws. If I did it again I'd use batons that were hidden, and would be easier to position, then screw into the batons to mount the D. That would give better clearance but presumably be a slightly weaker solution. Then again, four screws can hold a fair amount of weight.

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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