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My speakers sound amazing!
#11
(19-Oct-2016, 17:35)Hifi_swlon Wrote:
(19-Oct-2016, 13:20)ogs Wrote: Are you using the SAM profile?

On and off. I'm running it now at around 10%. For a period I preferred without but I moved speakers around a lot a few weeks ago and once they were in their final (slightly adjusted) place, I kind of liked it on at a low level.

I'm hot and cold with SAM. Previously I would have been happy to disable it (and did). Now I like it low. In the early days I had it 70% or so. It seems really dependent on slight position changes in my room/setup and can sound worse on in some cases.

I'm all over the place with SAM.   Blush  I ran off for quite some time recently, but I've turned it back on with SAM at 5%.
Roon->HQPlayer->McIntosh C47->McIntosh MC301s>Transparent Super->Wilson Audio Sabrinas w/ Shunyata Denali, Rega RP8, Rega Apheta 2


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#12
I tightened the screws on my Focals after a few months and just did hand tight until there was a little resistance, nothing more. I did them in the same pattern you would do the lugs on your tires, criss crossing pattern.
Roon->HQPlayer->McIntosh C47->McIntosh MC301s>Transparent Super->Wilson Audio Sabrinas w/ Shunyata Denali, Rega RP8, Rega Apheta 2


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#13
The speaker manufacturer should give you the torque setting. I know on my speakers, it is 3 N/mm2 for the bass driver. Not supposed to touch the M/HF unit, but on my speakers they are rather specialised (BMR units). You usually need a calibrated and fairly specialised torque wrench for those levels of torque.
Devialet 220 Pro, TQ Black Mains & Ultra Black Speaker Cables, Naim Ovators S600, Sonore microRendu (Roon & HQP) with Uptone JS-2
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#14
(19-Oct-2016, 13:11)Confused Wrote: Oddly enough, even measured torqueing of screws and bolts is very inaccurate in terms of the actual load exerted and stress imposed in the bolt.  What matters is the load / extension force on the bolt.  As an example, a super lubricated bolt will impose many times the actual force compared a non lubricated bolt with a given identical torque load.  To be honest, these are speaker bolts were are talking about here, so common sense and a careful touch and lots of feel are what is required and as good as anything.  If you are known amongst your mates as 'Mr gorilla hands' or similar, maybe get someone else to do it!

I missed this post - you sound like you know what you're talking about Confused, I'm just not sure I follow.
Is it that the friction of an unlubrucated bolt will contribute to torque from the wrenches POV (so less torque actually working)? How would you measure the load/exertion force other than torque wrench (at home)?

Just curious. Like you say you can feel a lot with your hands and my 0-20n calibrated wrench seemed useless at low settings. But knowing when to stop is still tricky.

Damn it, now we've started talking about it I'm going to stress about having over-tightened.

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#15
(19-Oct-2016, 20:35)Hifi_swlon Wrote:
(19-Oct-2016, 13:11)Confused Wrote: Oddly enough, even measured torqueing of screws and bolts is very inaccurate in terms of the actual load exerted and stress imposed in the bolt.  What matters is the load / extension force on the bolt.  As an example, a super lubricated bolt will impose many times the actual force compared a non lubricated bolt with a given identical torque load.  To be honest, these are speaker bolts were are talking about here, so common sense and a careful touch and lots of feel are what is required and as good as anything.  If you are known amongst your mates as 'Mr gorilla hands' or similar, maybe get someone else to do it!

I missed this post - you sound like you know what you're talking about Confused, I'm just not sure I follow.
Is it that the friction of an unlubrucated bolt will contribute to torque from the wrenches POV (so less torque actually working)? How would you measure the load/exertion force other than torque wrench (at home)?

Just curious. Like you say you can feel a lot with your hands and my 0-20n calibrated wrench seemed useless at low settings. But knowing when to stop is still tricky.

Damn it, now we've started talking about it I'm going to stress about having over-tightened.

Actually I think I know too much, which has somewhat warped my sense of perspective here!  Personally I'd look at Dr Tone's post above, and do what he says!

This is actually quite a complex topic.  You can get some super-lubricants that will allow relatively high load & stress in the bolt for a relatively low torque.  If you have the opposite, say a rough, unlubricated rusty bolt, then you could apply a lot or torque without the bolt (or nut) itself rotating, and if the bolt is not spinning down the threads, it is not putting any tension or load into the bolt.  That said, in the world of domestic speakers all this kind of stuff is pretty irrelevant, all the factors involved will be reasonably constant (unless you have a duff bolt) so if you have manufacturers torque figures, these should be fine as you would expect.  In super critical situations, you can use hydraulic bolt tensioners.  These pull the bolt by a pre-set tension / extension, you then just settle the nut, release the tensioner and you are done, perfect.  We are not talking domestic speaker applications here though!  I think I need to lie down and rest now, just do what Dr Tone said.  Oh, and be very careful...... Shy

(Over the next few days I predict tales of Devialet owners ripping bolts through speakers cabinets throughout the known world, 'Hifi_swlon week' it will be known as for all time, in the world of speaker warrantees.....)
1000 Pro - KEF Blade - iFi Zen Stream - Mutec REF10 - MC3+USB - Pro-Ject Signature 12
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#16
(19-Oct-2016, 17:35)Hifi_swlon Wrote: On and off. I'm running it now at around 10%. For a period I preferred without but I moved speakers around a lot a few weeks ago and once they were in their final (slightly adjusted) place, I kind of liked it on at a low level.

I'm hot and cold with SAM. Previously I would have been happy to disable it (and did). Now I like it low. In the early days I had it 70% or so. It seems really dependent on slight position changes in my room/setup and can sound worse on in some cases.

I enable SAM at 100% and do measurement for RC with SAM enabled. My speakers are not SAM'ed, but the Atohm GT-1 profile happens to work very well with my speakers. There was a  SAMlab session planned in my home town, Devialet cancelled unfortunately.
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250 Pro CI, MicroRendu(1.4), Mutec MC-3+USB
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#17
(19-Oct-2016, 19:13)AllenB Wrote: The speaker manufacturer should give you the torque setting. I know on my speakers, it is 3 N/mm2 for the bass driver. Not supposed to touch the M/HF unit, but on my speakers they are rather specialised (BMR units). You usually need a calibrated and fairly specialised torque wrench for those levels of torque.

I guess you mean 3 Nm, especially with MDF you have to take care.
Main Set: Aavik U-300, Magico V3, Wadia 381i, Ayre DX-5 dsd, NBS Black label / Omega 1, Crystal Dreamline, Cardas Clear, Ansuz Ceramic, Aurender N100H, purpose build rack Bubinga wood (175kg rack only)

Second set: Devialet 200, Raidho X1, JL Audio F110 Subs (2x), Oppo BDP103D with audiopraise board, Melco N1A, Uptone Regen, and lots of Ansuz goodies
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