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Phantom Gold Review in HiFi Choice
#11
(15-Nov-2016, 12:01)yabaVR Wrote:
(15-Nov-2016, 11:30)Hifi_swlon Wrote: ... Maybe they do all their measurements directly on the board and forgot to check with the casing in place?


Not to say the pro doesn't sound much better - it does so far - but to think it could be even better with a simple tweak... I wonder if all the Devialet designers hard wire their ones at home?

Yeah, exactly my thoughts. They measure only the board since there sits their knowledge and expertise.
'The rest is just some connections. Nothing to explore, let's save us some money there.' ...and whoops, they throw it all away  Confused

gui

Do you live near London? I know a guy who is working at 'KJ West One'. We worked together here in Berlin. I probably will send him my D200 for audition and some cables of my new collection.

Yes, very near. Wink

>>> 1st Place Award: Devialet, last decades most disappointing technology purchase.  <<<

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#12
(15-Nov-2016, 10:51)yabaVR Wrote:
(14-Nov-2016, 22:54)ogs Wrote:
(12-Nov-2016, 21:13)yabaVR Wrote: Sure. But it's only for the brave and strong hearted.

I have been wondering about the pin connections to the binding posts, but I thought 'as long as there are many in parallel...'. This shows that the best is probably a direct or soldered connection. You loose the XLR input this way. Maybe soldering will improve this too? Very brave stuff!

No, no you don't loose the XLR.

About the parallel pins.

Soldering the connections for XLR absolutely makes sense!

Do you suggest that all the pins for one output should be used for best result? Is there be room for Cardas binding posts if you remove the originals? Separate posts with this insulator:  http://www.cardas.com/sbpi.php.
Or some other binding posts from WBT for example...
*
Devialetless!
Roon, ROCK/Audiolense XO/Music on NAS/EtherRegen/RoPieee/USPCB/ISORegen/USPCB/Sound Devices USBPre2/Tannoy GOLD 8
250 Pro CI, MicroRendu(1.4), Mutec MC-3+USB
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#13
(15-Nov-2016, 16:18)ogs Wrote:
(15-Nov-2016, 10:51)yabaVR Wrote:
(14-Nov-2016, 22:54)ogs Wrote: I have been wondering about the pin connections to the binding posts, but I thought 'as long as there are many in parallel...'. This shows that the best is probably a direct or soldered connection. You loose the XLR input this way. Maybe soldering will improve this too? Very brave stuff!

No, no you don't loose the XLR.

About the parallel pins.

Soldering the connections for XLR absolutely makes sense!

Do you suggest that all the pins for one output should be used for best result? Is there be room for Cardas binding posts if you remove the originals? Separate posts with this insulator:  http://www.cardas.com/sbpi.php.
Or some other binding posts from WBT for example...

Sorry for hijacking your thread JohnnySix.

@ ogs
No, don't use all 7-pins. I used 2 and it sounds  just beautyful. Best would be to drill a hole into the mainboard and solder directly onto the board. Or even better to solder on to the next electrical part in the signal path. But then you have to rip of the mainbord. That's for the next time for me.

The Cardas in the link seem to be for loudspeakers since they are very long. They won't fit. Perhaps there is a shorter version? Other than that I consider Furutech's new 'low mass' series.

gui
"Oh, you can buy the other. But then it is a cost intensive learning process"
berlin
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#14
(15-Nov-2016, 17:57)yabaVR Wrote:
Sorry for hijacking your thread JohnnySix.

@ ogs
No, don't use all 7-pins. I used 2 and it sounds  just beautyful. Best would be to drill a hole into the mainboard and solder directly onto the board. Or even better to solder on to the next electrical part in the signal path. But then you have to rip of the mainbord. That's for the next time for me.

The Cardas in the link seem to be for loudspeakers since they are very long. They won't fit. Perhaps there is a shorter version? Other than that I consider Furutech's new 'low mass' series.

gui

I agree; apologies to JohnnySix!

This is very interesting though, should be moved into it's own thread in 'Tweaker's Corner'. Mods?

The Cardas binding posts exists in 'long' and 'short' versions.  The link provided was to the insulators for mounting in metal plates. Requires half-inch holes. Look here for the complete range: http://www.cardas.com/parts_binding_posts.php
*
Devialetless!
Roon, ROCK/Audiolense XO/Music on NAS/EtherRegen/RoPieee/USPCB/ISORegen/USPCB/Sound Devices USBPre2/Tannoy GOLD 8
250 Pro CI, MicroRendu(1.4), Mutec MC-3+USB
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#15
Very interesting; not something I would do (mod the insides of my D) but very interesting nonetheless! Smile

These pins connecting the loudspeakers terminals from a riser indeed can't be the optimal way. But regarding the XLR/AES3 connector; it could be -in theory- that Devialet did do the proper engineering and does some important impedance matching on the PCB. We can't know for sure they did or didn't.
PS Audio P3, Shunyata ΞTRON Alpha Digital and HC/Furutech power cables, Paul Hynes SR7EHD-MR4, DIY Roon Server & Roon Endpoint running AudioLinux Headless, Phasure Lush^2 USB cable, Audioquest Diamond RJ/E ethernet, Uptone Audio etherREGEN, Mutec MC-3+ USB, Shunyata ΞTRON Anaconda Digital XLR AES/EBU, Devialet Expert 250 Pro CI, Nordost Tyr Reference LS cables, Von Schweikert VR-5 SE Anniversary Edition, Anti-Mode Dual Core 2.0, JL Audio Fathom F112. More detail here.

The Netherlands
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#16
(15-Nov-2016, 19:33)Antoine Wrote: Very interesting; not something I would do (mod the insides of my D) but very interesting nonetheless! Smile

These pins connecting the loudspeakers terminals from a riser indeed can't be the optimal way. But regarding the XLR/AES3 connector; it could be -in theory- that Devialet did do the proper engineering and does some important impedance matching on the PCB. We can't know for sure they did or didn't.

Hi Antoine,
as you said before you are a sucker for SQ (so am I Big Grin  ). So this would be a must have modification for you despite your anxiety. But I have to admit that even me would not rip apart a brand new PRO. It would take me at least a week before I couldn't stand it  Tongue .

From day one you've done this mods you would never ever stand the poor (very poor) sound of a Power-Filter(-IEC) and this crappy binding posts (plus Devialet-Design)...never, I promise. It even wouldn't bother me to do this mods to an Od'A if I would call one my own...the gain of SQ is just too big.

Just to tease...we are all trying to get to the ultimate, pure, natural, 'Being There' sound. But very often we try to fix things at the wrong place in the audio chain (see SAM or digital room correction...maybe I will elaborate on that later).

One example. The improvement of bass is substantial with this mods. It is so much more precise, deeper, less boomy, transparent, has thrust. I have no need any more to do a digital room correction to the bass. I know the room-modes don't magically vanish, but they are so less prominent I don't care anymore. I enjoy the best time aligned bass I have ever heard in my room.

The better the audio chain gets the more it adapts to the room (ok, my theory Rolleyes ) or better said, the less the room affects your audio chain back through your speakers. Has anybody ever thought of your speakers acting like a microphone? Yes it does. Room reflections shout back onto your speakers. It's not a one way ticket for the signal  Idea   .

And you guess, it doesn't stopp with the bass. 

gui

@ Antoine
I know my laptop is not the best source (although highly moded). I hope I get time to build a system aquivalent to something that you built up.

For the impedance of XLR. To me there is too much amphasize on these measured values. Impedance may get important when using xx-meter-cables but for the normal approach it's just a value. It does not picture the sound. For me the XLR (after the mod) got improved in timing, transparency and the like (only tested with a C.E.C. drive though).
"Oh, you can buy the other. But then it is a cost intensive learning process"
berlin
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#17
(15-Nov-2016, 18:30)ogs Wrote:
(15-Nov-2016, 17:57)yabaVR Wrote:
Sorry for hijacking your thread JohnnySix.

@ ogs
No, don't use all 7-pins. I used 2 and it sounds  just beautyful. Best would be to drill a hole into the mainboard and solder directly onto the board. Or even better to solder on to the next electrical part in the signal path. But then you have to rip of the mainbord. That's for the next time for me.

The Cardas in the link seem to be for loudspeakers since they are very long. They won't fit. Perhaps there is a shorter version? Other than that I consider Furutech's new 'low mass' series.

gui

I agree; apologies to JohnnySix!

This is very interesting though, should be moved into it's own thread in 'Tweaker's Corner'. Mods?

The Cardas binding posts exists in 'long' and 'short' versions.  The link provided was to the insulators for mounting in metal plates. Requires half-inch holes. Look here for the complete range: http://www.cardas.com/parts_binding_posts.php

I don't see any problems for the short version. They would fit for sure. Might be interesting to compare these Cardas to Furutech's FT-865 R (Massiv vs. Low Mass)

gui

Angry  why do we have to do this DEVIALET  Huh
"Oh, you can buy the other. But then it is a cost intensive learning process"
berlin
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#18
With 6 months of therapy, I'm sure I can get over the 'hijacking' of my thread. At least it went in an interesting direction!

Regarding my statements about SAM, I'm not sure what's going on, but it doesn't seem so detrimental now. Maybe my PMC's have taken a month to break in, or I've pulled them out further to compensate for the extra bass. It now seems to add solidity to the soundstage. I do however have to back off to about 90% to avoid provoking the 33Hz mode in my room.
JRiver v25 (Windows) >> 220Pro/CI >> PMC Twenty5.23 + twin KEF KC62 subs. One White Phantom.
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#19
(16-Nov-2016, 14:09)JohnnySix Wrote: It now seems to add solidity to the soundstage. I do however have to back off to about 90% to avoid provoking the 33Hz mode in my room.

I would like you to do a test with SAM to get more certain of its influence to the music. To make it convenient you should assign SAM to a button on your D's RC first.

Look out for a track w/o bass, better a solo voice (woman) with lots of recorded room information (live or echoes). Or just an instrument with high frequencies and many of room reflections in the recording.

Listen to it. Stop it. Switch off SAM. Listen again. Repeat it until you can notice something. Can you distinguish the difference? What is it?

gui
"Oh, you can buy the other. But then it is a cost intensive learning process"
berlin
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