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Initial Questions from New D200 Owner...
#21
By way of a follow up to my previous question on subwoofer setup: I tried using a lowpass filter for my sub (60Hz) and a corresponding high pass filter for the main speakers (also 60Hz). Based on my reading, I was expecting this set up to eliminate the overlap between speakers and sub below 60Hz and hence provide a neat integration (and reduce the load on the D200 and speakers). I was very surprised that this set up generates a (much) stronger bass compared to the same setting but without the high pass filter, i.e. with the main speakers receiving a full signal and hence with both speakers and subwoofer operating below 60Hz. This is exactly the opposite of what I was expecting. Clearly I am not understanding something ! Any ideas?
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#22
Could it be that your speakers and sub are effectively out of phase at some low frequency, so when both are full-range the effect is a cancellation at that frequency?

I had a similar problem and concluded that was the reason; at least, I got a flatter measured (in-room) response by changing the input polarity on my sub.
Roon (Mac Mini), Wilson Benesch Full Circle, Expert 1000 Pro CI, Kaiser Chiara
Warwickshire, UK
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#23
The Piega sub does have a phase switch and I believe I originally selected the position that maximised bass for the main speaker settings on full-range, i.e. minimising any cancellation effects. But your point makes sense so I will check this again and perhaps also play with the phase dial.
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#24
(19-Mar-2015, 10:37)Clark Wrote: I have recently acquired a D200 and am new to this site. Actually I have been a very interested reader for some time whilst I was deliberating and so thanks to all the organisers and posters for the very useful info.

My previous system was a combination of Benchmark DAC1 and T+A (R-series) integrated amp and separate decoder along with Piega C3 & C2 LTD (and Piega subwoofer MKII). I really wanted to simplify my system and eliminate as many cables and remotes as possible and still maintain (or improve) the sonics. I had toyed with the idea of a Naim SuperUniti but became intrigued by the very innovative and aesthetic approach of Devialet, not to mention the widespread good reviews. So here I am, having doubled my original budget! I am based in Moscow but managed to find a dealer who had a demo D120 on offer. I initially took this and was immediately impressed by the very sweet-sounding delivery. However, there was no subwoofer board available and I was also concerned about max power for my Piegas so decided to swap it for the D200 which I now have which is a brand new unit.

I read from another poster here about being “sceptical but gullible”. This describes me also and having never believed in the concept of “burn-in”, I now find myself reconsidering. The D200 is not (yet) as sweet as the D120 (still seems a little rough around the edges) but I have the impression after 1 week that it is improving.. This may be psychological but this is how it seems. For sure I am now very much hoping that burn-in is real and that my new toy will continue to get better! In any event it is at least on the same level as my previous system, if not significantly better, but is way simpler (fewer boxes, cables and remotes), and looks much sleeker.

I am running the unit using MacMini/iTunes via USB and AIR over Ethernet (via switch, not direct) and prefer the AIR slightly but will keep experimenting. I have connected the subwoofer via mono with one cable but am not yet happy with the integration and will try stereo and play with the settings. In fact, I have just ordered new subwoofer cables as well as a whole bunch of other new cables (nothing special but I hope basic good quality). I am not really expecting any audible improvements but do expect reliability and longevity (I am generally very sceptical - potentially gullible! - about cables, especially digital ones).

I have a couple of initial questions if I may. Is Devialet planning a better remote concept? The remote itself is great but one aspect seems massively flawed to me: In my view the display on the main unit should be replicated on the remote to provide user feedback. I find myself walking over to the unit to confirm button pushes, particularly source changes, and this surely defeats the objective of a remote? Of course it is possible to use an iPhone but this is fiddly requiring clearing of the lock screen, launching of the app, etc. And the remote is otherwise beautiful… Such a shame!

Also, is it possible to alter the phase in the configurator? I saw a post here from someone who initially  thought they had a performance issue but realised the phase setting was wrong.

Thanks for any input or comments!
Others may have answered this already but iphone makes a fine remote.  I'd like to see one for mac and windows OS's too. 
 
D200, KEF LS50 / Sumiko S9 Sub Bass,  Audience AU24SE speaker,  Wireworld Silver Electra PC,  Wireworld Platinum Starlight, Straightwire Link USB,  Macbook Pro,  System76 (linux) SSD Laptop,  TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750.  


living in Salt Lake City, USA
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#25
I've had my 200 since last September.. There's no question it breaks in. When I first got it it was replacing an Ayon tube amp and PS Audio Dac.. I think it was around the 300 hour mark that I really felt I'd made the right decision.. And I've found that it's continued to get smoother.. Also the Devialet's definitely respond to power cord upgrades and good power line conditioning.
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#26
(07-Apr-2015, 13:14)thumb5 Wrote: Could it be that your speakers and sub are effectively out of phase at some low frequency, so when both are full-range the effect is a cancellation at that frequency?

I had a similar problem and concluded that was the reason; at least, I got a flatter measured (in-room) response by changing the input polarity on my sub.

Yep, that's the only valid explanation.  Smile
PS Audio P3, Shunyata ΞTRON Alpha Digital and HC/Furutech power cables, Paul Hynes SR7EHD-MR4, DIY Roon Server & Roon Endpoint running AudioLinux Headless, Phasure Lush^2 USB cable, Audioquest Diamond RJ/E ethernet, Uptone Audio etherREGEN, Mutec MC-3+ USB, Shunyata ΞTRON Anaconda Digital XLR AES/EBU, Devialet Expert 250 Pro CI, Nordost Tyr Reference LS cables, Von Schweikert VR-5 SE Anniversary Edition, Anti-Mode Dual Core 2.0, JL Audio Fathom F112. More detail here.

The Netherlands
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#27
if you set the same turnover frequency for both mains and sub you will get a peak at that frequency since both will be reproducing the same music at the same time. It is the wrong thing to do, in either an active or passive crossover.

Depending on the slope of filter you choose the bass needs to roll of at a lower frequency and the mains at a higher, such that the sum of the two is equal at your chosen crossover frequency.
Devialet Original d'Atelier 44 Core, Job Pre/225, Goldmund PH2, Goldmund Reference/T3f /Ortofon A90, Goldmund Mimesis 36+ & Chord Blu, iMac/Air, Lynx Theta, Tune Audio Anima, Goldmund Epilog 1&2, REL Studio. Dialog, Silver Phantoms, Branch stands, copper cables (mainly).
Oxfordshire

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#28
(07-Apr-2015, 13:14)thumb5 Wrote: Could it be that your speakers and sub are effectively out of phase at some low frequency, so when both are full-range the effect is a cancellation at that frequency?

I had a similar problem and concluded that was the reason; at least, I got a flatter measured (in-room) response by changing the input polarity on my sub.

(02-May-2015, 13:32)f1eng Wrote: if you set the same turnover frequency for both mains and sub you will get a peak at that frequency since both will be reproducing the same music at the same time. It is the wrong thing to do, in either an active or passive crossover.

Depending on the slope of filter you choose the bass needs to roll of at a lower frequency and the mains at a higher, such that the sum of the two is equal at your chosen crossover frequency.

This makes logical sense, thanks for the input. I guess trial and error is in order in the absence of measuring equipment. Any idea what “typical” values might be for the sub and mains for a smooth transition? (according to a spec sheet, the frequency response on the mains seems to drop at around 50Hz). At the moment I have set both at 60Hz - generally sounds ok but the bass is perhaps a little prominent so this is the presumably the effect you are referring to...
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