Power Filter Advice for a Dev 200 pls?

[Sobert]

I have tried Transparent Audio PowerIsolator Reference, PS Audio P5 and Audience aR6-TSS. After the software upgrade in May I felt that the PS Audio P5 was limiting the dynamics, so I changed to Transparent with a better result. I'm running Audience cables in my system so when an used aR6 turned up I went for it, this is the best I had in my system so worth the investment only problem with it, if power is lost to the unit it needs about 100 hours of power to sing at it best again. My unit was used in Munchen in May (but Audience wouldn't tell by what company).
Don't know if older PS audio models or P10 has the same problem. Transparent Audio is a good unit with four outlets. I only used to of them for max performance.
http://www.transparentcable.com/products...6&modCAT=1
Audience:
http://www.audience-av.com/conditioners/index.html

[Mikeeo]

Remember that Devialet has a small built in mains filter on the IEC. Can there be a conflict with other filter devices in the mains chain?

Since I got my dedicated mains cable and separate spur I feel I do not need my filter box (Lampizator) anylonger.
I am about to construct my own star configured distributor box with parts from Oyaide/Furutech etc.

/Mike

[Sobert]

Biggest differences in my setup are being able to play music at any time of the day and it's sound the same, the soundstage is also much bigger with AR6-TSS so I end up playing at lower volume (good thing for my neighbors). Bass is tighter and more punchy. The signature of the setup isn't changed, but that has never been a goal of mine.

[MightyMart]

Hi everyone!

This is my first post ever on this forum but I've been following a lot of the discussions here for quite some time, especially since the launching of the Phantom.

I'm currently thinking about buying a power conditioner from a Canadian based company called Torus. They are specialized in making power transformers (under the name Plitron that are used in a lot of high end gear around the world. Their conditioners are built up around toroidal isolation using massive transformers and are available in a variety of models, from moderately priced to very expensive. I've been doing some A-B tests at my local hifi dealer here in Stockholm, Sweden and the results are really good. I haven't though tried one yet with my own system and the specific listening conditions here at home, something that I think (as well as many others here) is critical for ending up paying for the right equipment.

http://www.toruspower.com/technology/

A Youtube clip for all you tech guys:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWzSsV6c4T4

The only and apparent downside, known to me so far, is that they are bulky and heavy...

My problem right now, that I hope to correct with a good conditioner, is changes in sound quality between for example midday and evening and workdays and weekends. My system sound best, easily, on Sunday evenings/nights when the electrical power is the least contaminated from factories, offices etc. At least, that is my theory...

Regards
Martin

[Mikeeo]

Martin,

I'll stick to my mantra and say: If possible install a dedicated spur and mains cable with some Furutech or Oyaide receptacle(s). Biggest gain ever had from mains related upgrades.
Svalander in Sweden sells these at competitive prices and for mains installation cable there are nice ones from Furutech, JPS, etc and the the one I am using, Audience in wall mains cable.

Sadly never heard a transformer based mains solution that didn't kill dynamics.

These units need the best mains they can get/Mike

[Music or sound]

I tried many different power filters over the years but none was acceptable as some improvements were compensated with major sound restrictions (mostly dynamically and timbre). As I have now floor boxes with very short power cables (see my system:http://devialetchat.com/Thread-Using-Devialet-s-active-cross-over) most filters would be at least awkward. I just got the new LessLoss firewall module http://www.lessloss.com/firewall-module-...0b972364e2. It is a quite small device so I could mount one in one floor box and I experienced the first time an improvement without any negative sound attributes. Less noise (I thought before there was almost none as I have a dedicated line and I am the only customer on the power company's transformer) allows me to enjoy music also at low sound levels. But it does not restrict the dynamics. So loud is better too!
Maybe I should get one more to separate the sources from the amp!

[johnsap]

Gents,
Can you please suggest an audiphile-grade panel to run the main from (preferably those which can be purchased in North America) ?
I have heard many times it is better to install a separate panel of better quality rather than using the existing gouse panel.
My guess my electrician will just intall another regular panel  beside, but I am looking one of high quality for audio.
Thank you

[Confused]

Out of interest, roughly how much would it cost to get a second consumer unit with dedicated spur installed? Plus, what exactly should be at the end of the spur? What I'm asking is what kind of socket / distribution board would work well? In my house I think installation would be quite simple, my mains enters my garage and the back of the garage correlates to where my hifi rack is in my living room.

[Music or sound]

You would not need a separate panel only a dedicated line from your main panel to living room wall

[GuillaumeB]

Out of interest, roughly how much would it cost to get a second consumer unit with dedicated spur installed?  Plus, what exactly should be at the end of the spur?  What I'm asking is what kind of socket / distribution board would work well?  In my house I think installation would be quite simple, my mains enters my garage and the back of the garage correlates to where my hifi rack is in my living room.

Several months ago I did a fair bit of research into this speaking to lots of audiophiles and electricians as well as spending many hours trawling the internet.

For me installation was relatively straight forward since my electricity metre and Henley block literally sit in a cupboard in my listening room!

The end result was that I fitted 8 separate circuits (completely OTT I know!) with each one feeding back to a dedicated (MK) consumer unit (sitting in that same cupboard). Of those 8 circuits 5 are on 20A RCDs and 3 are on 10A RCBOs, the reason being that I have 3 US-style (NEMA) double power sockets and obviously US power cables are unfused, so the RCBOs give me double protection against electrical shocks and current overload. I used regular unshielded 6mm T&E, with this choice taking a long time to settle on (there are pros and cons of shielded v. unshielded and the general consensus seems to be that 6mm is best, but you'll have to figure this out for yourself!).

In case you're wondering I got everything signed off by my electricians as per building regulations. 

The job took a couple of days with two electricians on site and there was a fair bit of tidying up to do after, with filling holes and touching up the paintwork. Not to mention a very dusty room for a few days! 

I think I paid around £1300 all-in, although that doesn't include the cost of the Furutech GTX-D sockets which I sourced separately.

My guess is that if you just went with a couple of circuits (i.e. ring mains) and used regular unswitched MK double wall sockets you could probably get this done for under a grand. I've said this elsewhere but it's probably the best £1300 that I have spent on an upgrade.

Guillaume