Something everyone should understand if they haven't caught on by now is 100% of everything I do is mechanical rather than electronic. I mean sure, I can solder, build interconnects, power cords and passive power conditioners but my abilities are limited to mechanical in nature tho some can have a dramatic effect on electronics. The things I know about fluid and thermal dynamics, convection cooling, air flow, boundary layer disturbances etc all come from previous mechanical pursuits. Tho I'm not completely daft as it relates to electronics I'm no wiz-kid either. S'why I can't recognize a thermal sensor when I see one even tho I own them from infra red/laser to various surface temp measurement probes! But I'm an exceedingly quick study and only have to be shown something once! And ya gotta know I'll be making no effort to rebuild any power supplies or the like in the Devialet... "Man's gotta know his limitations!"
My attempts at improving temperatures and SQ are being approached from a purely mechanical position and relying totally on reducing EMI/RFI via elimination of magnetic plating, fasteners etc while thermal efforts rely on vastly more efficient radiant surface finishes and convection cooling. If you look closely at what I've done and/or am doing there's hardly an electronic tweak in the house! Even binding post replacement was a mechanical tweak.
But I'm curious about the 250. How much cooler does it run? The only numbers I'm trying to better are what the 200 GUI shows, ie:
A 44C
D 45C
S 47C
Above numbers based on DPM/off (I prefer constant high current) post 24 hour continuous run time in a room thats 24-25C ambient in summer. Those numbers are repeatable & constant at volumes from -028 to -32dB
My attempts at improving temperatures and SQ are being approached from a purely mechanical position and relying totally on reducing EMI/RFI via elimination of magnetic plating, fasteners etc while thermal efforts rely on vastly more efficient radiant surface finishes and convection cooling. If you look closely at what I've done and/or am doing there's hardly an electronic tweak in the house! Even binding post replacement was a mechanical tweak.
But I'm curious about the 250. How much cooler does it run? The only numbers I'm trying to better are what the 200 GUI shows, ie:
A 44C
D 45C
S 47C
Above numbers based on DPM/off (I prefer constant high current) post 24 hour continuous run time in a room thats 24-25C ambient in summer. Those numbers are repeatable & constant at volumes from -028 to -32dB
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
