04-Mar-2016, 14:20
Hi Hifi_swlon, I understand, and it's clear you're not a complete sceptic. What I see is that you simply like to understand the hows and why's. Yesterday I read your questions to John Swenson and also there I think I could see you'd like him to explain the rationales behind his project, so why is he doing what he's doing and what is he trying to accomplish exactly and how. Like I said before I've always been like that as well but have let go a bit of the need to fully understand. In the end the result is what counts to me nowadays although I do need to have some feeling it's based on something real of course. And either approach (yours or mine) is good of course, not one is better than the other. At least with the Intona and Mutec it's all solid engineering and little high end hocus pocus and marketing BS.
Anyway I hope you like the Intona, if not I believe you can send it back within 14 days.
Indeed I think it's best to try both USB cables in each spot although I feel one should in theory use the "best" one between the Intona and Devialet since that link matters most, it's behind the regeneration phase after all. I do realize though that it's hard to determine from theory which one is best since many factors apply.
Regarding the Mutec I just wanted to add that you can disable all LED's except the power and lock LED by simultaneously pressing both buttons on the front of it once.
Here's the links I promised yesterday, just FYI of course! There's more but these discuss the Intona most.
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...tor-26815/
http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=3297.0
http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread...B-isolator!
http://www.head-fi.org/t/777678/intona-h...b-isolator
http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/ind...hizzle.62/
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showt...p?t=182061
http://www.xtremeplace.com/yabbse/index....=222582.30
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...ead-27465/
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...ted-27636/
Anyway I hope you like the Intona, if not I believe you can send it back within 14 days.
Indeed I think it's best to try both USB cables in each spot although I feel one should in theory use the "best" one between the Intona and Devialet since that link matters most, it's behind the regeneration phase after all. I do realize though that it's hard to determine from theory which one is best since many factors apply.
Regarding the Mutec I just wanted to add that you can disable all LED's except the power and lock LED by simultaneously pressing both buttons on the front of it once.
Here's the links I promised yesterday, just FYI of course! There's more but these discuss the Intona most.
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...tor-26815/
http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=3297.0
http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread...B-isolator!
http://www.head-fi.org/t/777678/intona-h...b-isolator
http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/ind...hizzle.62/
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showt...p?t=182061
http://www.xtremeplace.com/yabbse/index....=222582.30
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...ead-27465/
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac...ted-27636/
PS Audio P3, Shunyata ΞTRON Alpha Digital and HC/Furutech power cables, Paul Hynes SR7EHD-MR4, DIY Roon Server & Roon Endpoint running AudioLinux Headless, Phasure Lush^2 USB cable, Audioquest Diamond RJ/E ethernet, Uptone Audio etherREGEN, Mutec MC-3+ USB, Shunyata ΞTRON Anaconda Digital XLR AES/EBU, Devialet Expert 250 Pro CI, Nordost Tyr Reference LS cables, Von Schweikert VR-5 SE Anniversary Edition, Anti-Mode Dual Core 2.0, JL Audio Fathom F112. More detail here.
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