Got the Furutech Rhodium-plated/pure alpha copper blades IEC module installed this morning to replace the OEM Power Entry Module (sitting beside it in pic). No surprises here. Just open up the OEM cutout by 2mm at left side so flange doesn't partially cover LED at right in pic (cut-out height is perfect as-is) then drill & tap two M3X.5mm holes to accept the Titanium screws I cut short to fit this part. Then install. Total cake-walk project!
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
(22-Aug-2015, 18:02)Manoet Wrote: Got the Furutech Rhodium-plated/pure alpha copper blades IEC module installed this morning to replace the OEM Power Entry Module (sitting beside it in pic). No surprises here. Just open up the OEM cutout by 2mm at left side so flange doesn't partially cover LED at right in pic (cut-out height is perfect as-is) then drill & tap two M3X.5mm holes to accept the Titanium screws I cut short to fit this part. Then install. Total cake-walk project!
I did it 8 months ago on my D200. Difference in the sound is much bigger than changing speakers terminals. Something like SAM. Better bass control and deeper bass, with free dynamic impact, more lifelike ... free music
22-Aug-2015, 22:39 (This post was last modified: 22-Aug-2015, 22:41 by Manoet.)
Thank you & that's good news indeed! Can't wait to hear the cumulative effect of A-L-L the tweaks previously done and the many others currently in various stages of completion. Bodes well for me when I hear positive feedback from others that went out ahead of me on some things and can already confirm what I've only hoped for. The end result (fingers crossed) should be pretty damned impressive SQ and Temperature-wise!
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
(22-Aug-2015, 22:39)Manoet Wrote: Thank you & that's good news indeed! Can't wait to hear the cumulative effect of A-L-L the tweaks previously done and the many others currently in various stages of completion. Bodes well for me when I hear positive feedback from others that went out ahead of me on some things and can already confirm what I've only hoped for. The end result (fingers crossed) should be pretty damned impressive SQ and TemperatI am
I'm all ears about Your Thermal Fight. Great job ! Brave hearth ! For the first step I've also ordered those German thermal pads. Fantastic findings of Yours.
Thank You.
22-Aug-2015, 23:41 (This post was last modified: 23-Aug-2015, 00:03 by Manoet.)
Thanks again! I have high expectations for those pads! So much so that I'm leaving the digital board out of the convection cooling path at least initially. That will afford me the ability to check via the GUI temp readings more or less exactly how well the pads work compared to before without convection influence. I chose that board because of its relative ease to get at being just under the belly pan. Once I have an idea of how effective "just" the pads are on that board, which on my 200 is the hotter of the two, I can then go back in later and very quickly open the digital board up to the convection air path without going deeper than just belly pan removal allows. Should give me a much more accurate idea of original OEM thermal pad vs new thermal pad vs convection cooling temp differentials and resulting efficiencies separately & combined. Its important for me to know and an opportunity I just couldn't take a pass on in my rush to get things back together and playing music.
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
Thrilled to read your PEM change experience. Did you use the same non filtered f'tech iec module as Manoet? I purchased the Furutech-AC-1501-R, but given the different blade orientations to the internal power supply circuit board, I'm rethinking if its worth the effort to adapt it to fit, or just go with Maneot's design of non-filtered module and run jumper cables to the ps circuit board.
Thx
Kenreau
Synology DS412+> Aurender S10> AQ Wel AES > Devialet 200> AQ Castle Rock Bi-Wired > Vandersteen 5As.
(22-Aug-2015, 18:02)Manoet Wrote: Got the Furutech Rhodium-plated/pure alpha copper blades IEC module installed this morning to replace the OEM Power Entry Module (sitting beside it in pic). No surprises here. Just open up the OEM cutout by 2mm at left side so flange doesn't partially cover LED at right in pic (cut-out height is perfect as-is) then drill & tap two M3X.5mm holes to accept the Titanium screws I cut short to fit this part. Then install. Total cake-walk project!
Nice work and thanks for the photos!
Question - what is the prefered means of getting the schurter pem out of the chassis opening? I see the spring retaining tangs. Do you just compress them with channel locks?
Thx
Kenreau
Synology DS412+> Aurender S10> AQ Wel AES > Devialet 200> AQ Castle Rock Bi-Wired > Vandersteen 5As.
05-Sep-2015, 00:36 (This post was last modified: 05-Sep-2015, 00:38 by Manoet.)
Mine was easier to remove due to PCB being removed and disassembled but still a struggle. Best way would be to bend a pair of long cheap hemostat jaws inward towards each other about an inch in from the tips after heating cherry red so they don't break/snap. However F'tech just notified me today that their newest PEM is integrated into the IEC plug ala two-birds-with-one-stone. I didn't want the PEM at any cost so I eliminated it.
BTW channel locks won't come close to fitting the narrow confines on the inboard side of the OEM PEM retaining clips.
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
Manoet - I've got my F'tech FI-06R on its way from VH Audio. I'm curious about your retrofit wiring to the power supply circuit board for line and neutral. I recall seeing a photo on one of your threads, but didn't see it hear. It shows the Crystal wiring criss-crossed in an X orientation from the F'tech to the PCB solder locations. Was that just for physical and/or space constraints reasons? Given its alternating current, it probably shouldn't make a difference.
Fwiw, I also purchased a F'tech FT-786F RHODIUM female XLR chassis connector to replace the oem one. I only use the AES digital input from my Aurender, so I thought it may be fruitful to optimize it. Just hope it fits with few mods.
Thx
Kenreau
Synology DS412+> Aurender S10> AQ Wel AES > Devialet 200> AQ Castle Rock Bi-Wired > Vandersteen 5As.
(14-Oct-2015, 16:32)kenreau Wrote: Manoet - I've got my F'tech FI-06R on its way from VH Audio. I'm curious about your retrofit wiring to the power supply circuit board for line and neutral. I recall seeing a photo on one of your threads, but didn't see it hear. It shows the Crystal wiring criss-crossed in an X orientation from the F'tech to the PCB solder locations. Was that just for physical and/or space constraints reasons? Given its alternating current, it probably shouldn't make a difference.
Fwiw, I also purchased a F'tech FT-786F RHODIUM female XLR chassis connector to replace the oem one. I only use the AES digital input from my Aurender, so I thought it may be fruitful to optimize it. Just hope it fits with few mods.
Thx
Kenreau
It actually does make a difference (to some). If you measure you will find different voltage between Live and Earth and between Neutral and Earth. That is why some equipment produces have options for switching polarity, and why some producers of power-cables say that you shouldn't turn your power-cable polarity around (turn socket) as the cable will burn into being better for the polarity first chosen (personally I find that part a bit extreme).
If I remember Manoet's description correct, he turned the PEM upside down and hence needed to cross the internal wiring.
