Wifi antenna interference

[hardcore]

Looking at the photos of the internals of the Expert Pro, I suspect that just disconnecting the 2 antennas from the Wi-Fi card will bring about the improvements in sound quality - the antenna connections may connect the chassis ground to the CI circuit ground via the external antenna socket. By simply disconnected them, we break that potential ground loop. When disconnecting them, definitely cover the metal contacts on the antenna cables to prevent short circuits.

Perhaps worth experimenting if you're uncomfortable with removing the Wi-Fi card which causes the auto-dimming and auto-standby to not work.

[hardcore]

I just removed the Wi-Fi cards from both units of my 1000 Pro pair.

*WARNING* It is quite risky to open the case of the 250 Pro / 1000 Pro units! The ADH unit is actually stuck to the bottom copper cover. So, when you lift the cover off, the whole ADH comes off with it. The ADH unit is connected to the mainboard by rows of pins, which can get bent if you're not careful. I lifted the cover off slowly from one side (left side from bottom view). Putting the cover back on is also tricky. I did it by placing and aligning the cover to the left side first, then *slowly* lowering the cover on the opposite side so the pins go into the holes correctly.

There is also a heatsink for the Core Infinity SoC chip that is also stuck to the bottom copper cover. I didn't touch it and didn't bother re-doing the heatsink paste for the SoC.

I don't suggest the procedure for the faint of heart. Opening up the 250 Pro / 1000 Pro units is trickier than the smaller models.

Now how does it sound? Listening for a few minutes now. (Thank God it works!) Initial impressions: highs sound less edgy and smoother, bass may be a bit tighter.

[Vivialet]

I did that exactly the same way. You are right, it should be done very carefully. Nothing for someone with two left hands…
After some days of listening I must admit that it is a really important improvement for me. A much more realistic sound…

[hardcore]

I did that exactly the same way. You are right, it should be done very carefully. Nothing for someone with two left hands…
After some days of listening I must admit that it is a really important improvement for me. A much more realistic sound…

Yeah, I was a little worried when I saw that the ADH was stuck to the cover and was wondering how to put it back.

Listening now for a few hours, I agree, it sounds better. A subtle but noticeable difference. The highs are smoother, and some harshness which was there before is now gone. The sound-field around the speakers is more even and sounds more natural. The bass is tighter. The system sounds more 'analog-like' and relaxing.

I notice that I turn up the volume more now, and I hear more 'into' the music than before. Micro details and soft sounds come through more clearly.

I think the difference could come mostly from removing both antenna connections from the Wi-Fi card. So, if @daniel.avasilichioaei is not comfortable having the Wi-Fi card itself removed, maybe worth trying just disconnecting the antenna connections while leaving the Wi-Fi card connected. Just make sure to tape up / insulate the antenna cable connectors to prevent short circuits.

[Vivialet]

I'm not sure if removing the antenna is a good idea. The card would still be active but now gets a very weak signal. Trying to work with a weak or missing signal could result in more power consumption...
Also it could be a problem to connect the antenna again if you want to revert the change. That failed for me already for a mini PC which has a similar wifi card.

[hardcore]

I'm not sure if removing the antenna is a good idea. The card would still be active but now gets a very weak signal. Trying to work with a weak or missing signal could result in more power consumption...
Also it could be a problem to connect the antenna again if you want to revert the change. That failed for me already for a mini PC which has a similar wifi card.

I'm assuming you would already disable the Wi-Fi in the configurator so it's not used.

[Vivialet]

sure, but disabling in the configurator does not mean it is not actibe or powered. If it would be completely shut off it would not bring such an improvement if you remove it.

[hardcore]

sure, but disabling in the configurator does not mean it is not actibe or powered. If it would be completely shut off it would not bring such an improvement if you remove it.

I think it's not the card itself that affects the sound, but the connectors going between the card, the antenna connection on the CI board, and the antenna on the chassis. That would be linking the ground of the chassis, to the wifi card, and the CI board. Removing that ground link seems beneficial.

[daniel.avasilichioaei]

sure, but disabling in the configurator does not mean it is not actibe or powered. If it would be completely shut off it would not bring such an improvement if you remove it.

If you are concerned about the power consumption or the impact on the sound quality of electrically powered components that are not actively used, then you should definitely NOT remove the Wi-Fi card.
The fact that the display does not turn off and the amplifier does not go into standby shows that the Devialet OS perceives a false activity of the audio inputs or of the user and, as a result:
- keeps all amplifier components active (Wi-Fi plus others);
- processes continuously, because it enters a permanent loop in which it waits for confirmation from the Wi-Fi card that it has no activity (and it cannot receive this confirmation because the card has been removed).
So, I still do not recommend removing the Wi-Fi card: it is incompatible with the Devialet OS and puts it in an abnormal situation with consequences unknown to us.

The elegant and correct solution would be for Devialet to modify the OS/firmware, so that deactivating the Wi-Fi card in the configurator also stops its power supply.

[Vivialet]

that's all guessing. Fact is the sound quality improves a lot when removing the card. So electrically this seems to be better.
But you are right, the best option would be the possibility to deactivate the whole CI board. Some sort of halt state for the CPU maybe.
The CI board can be removed of course, but it also includes a better clock which replaces the old system clock. I remember a clear upgrade in SQ when the CI board was added (I got the Pro update first without the CI board...)