jupp guess heat over time broke it. its just a smal twisted cabel no core so dont need that mutch to brake it.
was black on the tipp when i took it all the way off. was haning by one smal sting at first.
but i did conect it again an the speeker worked. but dont have a soddering iron. so need that to fix it completely
27-Mar-2021, 16:04 (This post was last modified: 27-Mar-2021, 16:40 by phancypants.)
Didn't think this warranted a new thread so am adding some photos here. I recently picked up a faulty V1 remote which said it worked but didn't rotate smoothly. I didn't bother to test it and went straight to disassembling it so can't tell if it did work properly before or not, but the turning did have a bit more stiction than normal. Anyway it turns out it also had had a leaking battery in the past, so I cleaned it up best I could and had a look at the bearing. Couldn't find anything else wrong with it but after cleaning up I reassembled it it seemed to work ok but would occasionally not register and need additional turns. But it would also rub a bit, and I'd left a small piece of plastic/dust in the window which was really bugging me, so I went to disassemble it again and accidentally tore off a small SMD component, I think an inductor (the round component with an E written on it next to the bluetooth module). Now after reassembling the volume only fluctuates about the current setting +/- 1. So I broke it for real! I found the most difficult part of the disassembly was to remove the bearing, as I don't have a bearing puller.
Anyway the main components in this if anyone is interested are:
I can't see any markings on the two encoder sensors
Interestingly the PIC has a built in LCD driver, so maybe they were going to include a screen with the V1 remote and dropped it, keeping it for the V2 remote instead. Who knows.
Little update. I've just realised why this remote is not working properly and fluctuating about a setpoint, the encoder markings in the first image have to be within a certain distance from the sensors, and upon disassembly the clips holding the PCB in place snapped off. This causes the PCB to pushed about 1-2 mm too far from the sensors. If I hold the PCB in the right place, the remote works as expected. I attach a closeup of the part I tore off. The remote seems to work ok without it, I assume it did some filtering. Does anyone here happen to recognise the component? I've just ordered an LCR meter as I've misplaced my old one, and will try and measure the inductance from what's left of the part!
Thanks' for posting this! I disassembled my remote as well and ended up in the same situation. I realized that the proper distance is key. I was also stupid enough to use a tiny bit of WD40 to get the bearing going again. The effect was that I smeared all the markings... I cleaned it and reapplied them with a pen. That did the trick. Now I am still looking for a way to assemble the remote such that the distance is correct. Please let us know in case you find a solution!
31-Mar-2021, 11:32 (This post was last modified: 31-Mar-2021, 11:36 by phancypants.)
No problem! Regarding the spacing, I have a few ideas... I've attached a photo showing which are the relevant attachment points for the correct spacing. I managed to find 2 clips as they snapped off, but I doubt that gluing them back will work. I attach some more photos...
1st option - This would likely be a permanent reassembly, and requires that the original mount points are all at the correct height, i.e. only the tab ends are snapped off as seen in the second photo. Here, I would remove the black 'foam spring', and apply some epoxy to the 5 holes in the PCB where the clips and pegs contact, and then reassemble. Then leave the upper half lying face up on a level surface to allow the epoxy to cure. See the first photo for an idea of what I mean, here I have removed the aluminium ring, if you choose this method make sure everything is assembled inside the ring first, with the bearing! Finally, I would maybe even remove the metal tab for the battery spring contact, and flatten it slightly, so that the batteries do not push as hard on the PCB and undo the gluing efforts.
2nd option - I assume that like myself, you have tried to reassemble using all the components. I find that now this is causing the incorrect distance as without the clips, the batteries and foam spring push the PCB all the way to the window at the top of the remote. This also causes the logo to rub on the plastic, but I can live with this (the logo may rub off over time). Here I would try gluing some thin black plastic/rubber squares to the ring to bring them closer to the sensors, or even cut a ring from a yoghurt/butter pot to glue on, and use a marker like you have done for the new squares. This may take some experimenting to get the thickness correct. I would first test without the bearing so that multiple disassembly and test attempts are easier. Be careful removing the encoder ring, the thin plastic is easy to snap if you pull on it (third photo)
I'm keen to remove the metal spring and forgo the AAA batteries altogether and use a small LiPo battery, but I need to test this first. It should be easy to fit one and a micro USB charger in the base after removing the metal spring clip. However it would also need a 3.3 V regulator as this is the max voltage for the WiFi module. Could also include a lead/steel plate in the base to make it less top heavy and prevent it tipping over and un-pairing!
