BTW; cover looks larger in this pic than the area it sits on as I had to raise it about an inch above the electronics below it. Simply closer to the camera is only reason.
The main component that generates heat is the large squarish piece slightly above centerline and centered left-to-right. Its been surrounded by a solid HIGHLY magnetically attracted, tho not magnetic itself (ferrimagnetic) piece thats loosely fitted over the chip below it. It rattles a bit if not pressed into the blue heat transfer matrix on inside of cover and a matching piece of that same material on its backside between it and underside of chrome cover. That chip under the surrounding material is clearly marked "high voltage." An interesting aspect is this material shows zero continuity/conductivity... no ohms whatsoever yet feels eerily metal-like. While I'm open to a more experienced explanation I'm forced to concede it's a ceramic ferrite bead as that's the only material I know of than can be both magnetc, non-magnetic but attracted to magnets and simultaneously non-conductive. In light of a better explanation I'll proceed with this thought process.
A good thing that may come from this is how easy access to the PSU is. Its only 4 screws and accessible via removing the rear cover with no other part removals to gain access to its insides. There "may" be cooling affects to be had. While that blue thermal transfer matrix seems to perform adequately once it gets up to temp. But it's slow to respond and takes a VERY long time to cool and shed its heat once things are turned off. Not what I personally want to see with DPM turned on. It would take forever for temp sensors to respond to power (heat) raising & lowering.
My plan here is to apply a small bead of silicone, applied with a toothpick or similar on the left & right ends of that piece on both the top and bottom of the PCB. You can see the small gap to right of that piece in pic and there's a similarly sized gap on opposite side and that piece moving left-to-right is where the rattle originates. That will eliminate any possibility for rattling when moving the case around. And silicone can easily tolerate 400-450*F temps continuously, long-term. I want that area inside the box to respond to temp swings much quicker than it did before removal. I'll remove all the blue-goo related to PSU at the same time from Devialet top and PS cover. I'll be able to know immediately when up and running again if there's any worthwhile temperature effect by simply keeping an eye on the "supply" temps on the GUI. And if I need to go internal, as I said previously, that particular part is easily accessible. I can be in & out in under 20 minutes with a tweak or two if necessary.
I'll be revisiting this thread as the project moves thru this particular aspect of the modifications.
Can anyone look at the PSU circuitry on the PCB from the above picture and tell me with any assurance which little part is the thermal sensor? I have an idea but want a 2nd and preferably a 3rd confirmation before relying on my idea as I'm incredibly weak in recognizing electronic bits & pieces. Worst case I can run it over to a friend's computer repair shop as he'll likely know at a glance.
Statements in my posts are opinion only, not to be construed as fact. Any projects I engage in are at my own risk! Their outcome cannot be assured and may result in success, small/no change or catastrophic failure. I encourage no one rely on anything I say or do as gospel and to realize your mileage may vary!
