In general: the thicker the absorption the more acoustic energy it will absorp over a broader frequency range. Thin sheets of absorption will do little to nothing for the lower mid/bass frequencies and only some for higher frequencies. Thicker sheets will absorp more highs and at a certain point also become more effective at mid/bass frequencies. This is the exact reason it is so hard to battle room modes, you need a lot of absorption material and thus space to tame those. There's other solutions to "trap bass" as well like my RPG Modex panels which are "spring loaded" sheets of metal against a softer absorber. These are specifically tuned/designed to absorp small band bass frequencies only. Above applies most to the soft, foamy materials.
Professional manufacturers will supply charts of absorption coefficients for their products. These will display how effective they are in absorbing the the different frequency bands, at least between 125Hz and 8kHz.
As an example and to just illustrate what I mean have a look at this datasheet: http://www.primacoustic.com/pdf/EDS/prim...oadway.pdf
Earlier I wrote that I hired an acoustics expert who measured my room and then modeled it to simulate the required type of materials and their locations. I'd still advise that for a complete approach instead of a point solution or a trial and error approach. Of course one can do it for himself but without modeling upfront and measuring while you go you're in the dark. Key to good acoustics is the right amount of absorption and diffusion and balance to acquire an even broadband absorption over the whole frequency scale. But of course in an entirely untreated room without much "natural" absorption almost anything will help.
Professional manufacturers will supply charts of absorption coefficients for their products. These will display how effective they are in absorbing the the different frequency bands, at least between 125Hz and 8kHz.
As an example and to just illustrate what I mean have a look at this datasheet: http://www.primacoustic.com/pdf/EDS/prim...oadway.pdf
Earlier I wrote that I hired an acoustics expert who measured my room and then modeled it to simulate the required type of materials and their locations. I'd still advise that for a complete approach instead of a point solution or a trial and error approach. Of course one can do it for himself but without modeling upfront and measuring while you go you're in the dark. Key to good acoustics is the right amount of absorption and diffusion and balance to acquire an even broadband absorption over the whole frequency scale. But of course in an entirely untreated room without much "natural" absorption almost anything will help.
PS Audio P3, Shunyata ΞTRON Alpha Digital and HC/Furutech power cables, Paul Hynes SR7EHD-MR4, DIY Roon Server & Roon Endpoint running AudioLinux Headless, Phasure Lush^2 USB cable, Audioquest Diamond RJ/E ethernet, Uptone Audio etherREGEN, Mutec MC-3+ USB, Shunyata ΞTRON Anaconda Digital XLR AES/EBU, Devialet Expert 250 Pro CI, Nordost Tyr Reference LS cables, Von Schweikert VR-5 SE Anniversary Edition, Anti-Mode Dual Core 2.0, JL Audio Fathom F112. More detail here.
The Netherlands
The Netherlands
