31-Mar-2021, 11:32
(This post was last modified: 31-Mar-2021, 11:36 by phancypants.)
No problem! Regarding the spacing, I have a few ideas... I've attached a photo showing which are the relevant attachment points for the correct spacing. I managed to find 2 clips as they snapped off, but I doubt that gluing them back will work. I attach some more photos...
1st option - This would likely be a permanent reassembly, and requires that the original mount points are all at the correct height, i.e. only the tab ends are snapped off as seen in the second photo. Here, I would remove the black 'foam spring', and apply some epoxy to the 5 holes in the PCB where the clips and pegs contact, and then reassemble. Then leave the upper half lying face up on a level surface to allow the epoxy to cure. See the first photo for an idea of what I mean, here I have removed the aluminium ring, if you choose this method make sure everything is assembled inside the ring first, with the bearing! Finally, I would maybe even remove the metal tab for the battery spring contact, and flatten it slightly, so that the batteries do not push as hard on the PCB and undo the gluing efforts.
2nd option - I assume that like myself, you have tried to reassemble using all the components. I find that now this is causing the incorrect distance as without the clips, the batteries and foam spring push the PCB all the way to the window at the top of the remote. This also causes the logo to rub on the plastic, but I can live with this (the logo may rub off over time). Here I would try gluing some thin black plastic/rubber squares to the ring to bring them closer to the sensors, or even cut a ring from a yoghurt/butter pot to glue on, and use a marker like you have done for the new squares. This may take some experimenting to get the thickness correct. I would first test without the bearing so that multiple disassembly and test attempts are easier. Be careful removing the encoder ring, the thin plastic is easy to snap if you pull on it (third photo)
I'm keen to remove the metal spring and forgo the AAA batteries altogether and use a small LiPo battery, but I need to test this first. It should be easy to fit one and a micro USB charger in the base after removing the metal spring clip. However it would also need a 3.3 V regulator as this is the max voltage for the WiFi module. Could also include a lead/steel plate in the base to make it less top heavy and prevent it tipping over and un-pairing!
1st option - This would likely be a permanent reassembly, and requires that the original mount points are all at the correct height, i.e. only the tab ends are snapped off as seen in the second photo. Here, I would remove the black 'foam spring', and apply some epoxy to the 5 holes in the PCB where the clips and pegs contact, and then reassemble. Then leave the upper half lying face up on a level surface to allow the epoxy to cure. See the first photo for an idea of what I mean, here I have removed the aluminium ring, if you choose this method make sure everything is assembled inside the ring first, with the bearing! Finally, I would maybe even remove the metal tab for the battery spring contact, and flatten it slightly, so that the batteries do not push as hard on the PCB and undo the gluing efforts.
2nd option - I assume that like myself, you have tried to reassemble using all the components. I find that now this is causing the incorrect distance as without the clips, the batteries and foam spring push the PCB all the way to the window at the top of the remote. This also causes the logo to rub on the plastic, but I can live with this (the logo may rub off over time). Here I would try gluing some thin black plastic/rubber squares to the ring to bring them closer to the sensors, or even cut a ring from a yoghurt/butter pot to glue on, and use a marker like you have done for the new squares. This may take some experimenting to get the thickness correct. I would first test without the bearing so that multiple disassembly and test attempts are easier. Be careful removing the encoder ring, the thin plastic is easy to snap if you pull on it (third photo)
I'm keen to remove the metal spring and forgo the AAA batteries altogether and use a small LiPo battery, but I need to test this first. It should be easy to fit one and a micro USB charger in the base after removing the metal spring clip. However it would also need a 3.3 V regulator as this is the max voltage for the WiFi module. Could also include a lead/steel plate in the base to make it less top heavy and prevent it tipping over and un-pairing!
