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Painting Phantoms
#1
So I'm going to paint some phantoms and couldn't find any references to people doing the same.

Any tips on what to avoid or be careful of?

Obviously I won't get paint inside the tweeter housing. But what about the mid-range driver, would it be affected by the additional weight or change in surface texture? 

Kris
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#2
ummm, welcome!

You're on your own here, I think. Some wish for different colors but no one has tried to paint a Phantom, as far as I know. Personally, I would not do so, and certainly I would not treat the driver surfaces on a Phantom any differently than I would a driver on any other speaker.

If the white, or the yucky gold color, is a problem, why not try some sort of fabric sock or elasticized cover, a la Gallo or Golden Ear?

Otherwise, we'll expect some pictures and a listening report.
Damon
Powernode, NAD M32, Cambridge CD transport, Analysis Plus, Nordost, iFi Nova, CSS Criton 1TDX, KEF C62
Vancouver, Canada
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#3
I would not advise painting the transducers, neither the medium nor the woofers, since this would change the weight of the moving parts and therefore defeating the SAM technology that is applied to them.

Now, to the question of whether or not you would be able to hear the difference, it is a bit hard to answer without trying, but since retreating speaker membranes is a well known practice of many speakers manufacturers who are using 3rd party drivers, I would assume that yes it would hear it until proven wrong.

Jean-Marie
MacBook Air M2 -> RAAT/Air -> WiFi -> PLC -> Ethernet -> Devialet 220pro with Core Infinity (upgraded from 120) -> AperturA Armonia
France
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#4
Did you consider trying folio (not sure this is an accurate translation)? You can wrap the speakers in this in any color - and it can be removed again if you regret or want to sell at a later point in time. It's used on cars, furniture etc. - I do not see why it wouldn't work on speakers.
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#5
Thanks for the thoughts,

The weight throwing off SAM calibration is interesting - I guess technically it is true, but it is very hard to judge the real-life significance.

I also wondered about the surface texture on the mid-range driver- does a rough surface increase turbulence, or any other phenomena relevant to audio quality? Again - any change may or may not be material.

I might try repainting one gold from a pair and seeing if I can perceive any difference after each step.

My instinct is that the bass drivers won't care - the forces and weights involved are significant, and the frequencies very low - whereas the mid range is far lighter.

I also have some peelable paint - I think the weight/thickness of the application will be significantly higher than regular paint. Although perhaps for exploring whether paint has any significant impact, perhaps that will be an interesting place to start.

Kris
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#6
Maybe seal off the ‘orifices’ and Plastidip the rest? Nice and reversible if anything should go awry.
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#7
(08-Jan-2018, 10:10)antilles Wrote: Maybe seal off the ‘orifices’ and Plastidip the rest? Nice and reversible if anything should go awry.

I have a peelable paint which would probably be easier than plastidipping something so big and heavy..!

New units (two golds) will be here soon so I'll post back when I get time to try it.
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#8
(09-Jan-2018, 12:13)epicedium Wrote:
(08-Jan-2018, 10:10)antilles Wrote: Maybe seal off the ‘orifices’ and Plastidip the rest? Nice and reversible if anything should go awry.

I have a peelable paint which would probably be easier than plastidipping something so big and heavy..!

New units (two golds) will be here soon so I'll post back when I get time to try it.

Any updates? Considering painting mine as well. Would it need to be taken apart?
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#9
To do it properly you would need automotive paint, a professional sprayer and an oven. Anything else would be a bodge. In other words no........................
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#10
Another solution:
Foils for cars, the films can be removed again without residue.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4KE23rWqmcE

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2jfgb9uv0P8
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