Version: Firmware 13.1.3 + DOS 2.2.4 Date: 2019-02-12

[Lincolnlad]

Hello, a technical numptie here.  I am trying to put the new software onto my 1000 Pro (with CI board).

I am having great difficulty.

I have downloaded the software onto both the Master and the companion.  I have then (on the same Sd cards) put the configurated files (ie selecting the sources and of course the “daisy chain”.  I only get the sound from the Master, the Companion (which told me I had added new software) says “link status none”

Should I have deleted the new software files off the sd card once it has been downloaded?  Should I put the “configurated” files on a separate sd card?

I have named the various sources (e.g, AES/EBU is Aurender), but these are not being displayed, just the AES/EBU.

Is there anyone who can give me any guidance please?  Very confused.

Many Thanks in advance

[Axel]

Hello, a technical numptie here.  I am trying to put the new software onto my 1000 Pro (with CI board).

I am having great difficulty.

I have downloaded the software onto both the Master and the companion.  I have then (on the same Sd cards) put the configurated files (ie selecting the sources and of course the “daisy chain”.  I only get the sound from the Master, the Companion (which told me I had added new software) says “link status none”

Should I have deleted the new software files off the sd card once it has been downloaded?  Should I put the “configurated” files on a separate sd card?

I have named the various sources (e.g, AES/EBU is Aurender), but these are not being displayed, just the AES/EBU.

Is there anyone who can give me any guidance please?  Very confused.

Many Thanks in advance

It’s best to have a spare SD Card to hold the new firmware files. This way, you keep your configuration files untouched. Download the new firmware files onto the SD Card, then lock the card with the small slider on the side. If you don’t do this, then the Devialet deletes a couple of files when the firmware is loaded, meaning you have to reload them before upgrading the other amp.  
Put the SD Card in the first amp and with the amp turned off, press and hold the power button until you see a countdown in the display, which will start from 5. As soon as it starts the countdown, take your finger off the button. Allow the update to finish. It will tell you when it’s finished and to press the power button. Repeat the same procedure for the second amp. Replace your configuration cards, and you should be good to go. Cycle through the information screens to make sure that each amp is using the same firmware. 
Hope this helps.

[Lincolnlad]

Hello, a technical numptie here.  I am trying to put the new software onto my 1000 Pro (with CI board).

I am having great difficulty.

I have downloaded the software onto both the Master and the companion.  I have then (on the same Sd cards) put the configurated files (ie selecting the sources and of course the “daisy chain”.  I only get the sound from the Master, the Companion (which told me I had added new software) says “link status none”

Should I have deleted the new software files off the sd card once it has been downloaded?  Should I put the “configurated” files on a separate sd card?

I have named the various sources (e.g, AES/EBU is Aurender), but these are not being displayed, just the AES/EBU.

Is there anyone who can give me any guidance please?  Very confused.

Many Thanks in advance

It’s best to have a spare SD Card to hold the new firmware files. This way, you keep your configuration files untouched. Download the new firmware files onto the SD Card, then lock the card with the small slider on the side. If you don’t do this, then the Devialet deletes a couple of files when the firmware is loaded, meaning you have to reload them before upgrading the other amp.  
Put the SD Card in the first amp and with the amp turned off, press and hold the power button until you see a countdown in the display, which will start from 5. As soon as it starts the countdown, take your finger off the button. Allow the update to finish. It will tell you when it’s finished and to press the power button. Repeat the same procedure for the second amp. Replace your configuration cards, and you should be good to go. Cycle through the information screens to make sure that each amp is using the same firmware. 
Hope this helps.

Thank you so much, I will try that this evening!

[disarmamant]

When you update the firmware and dos you should have only the 14 files for the software update on the SD card.

To update the software you need to reset both the master and companion, with the amplifier in standby mode a long press on the front button should reset the amplifier, you should see a message ‘Reset’ and a countdown from 5 seconds.

The other method is to disconnect the amplifiers from the mains supply.

With just the 14 firmware update files on the SD card, insert the card and then power on. Do each unit one by one. If you don’t set the write protect on the SD card you will have to re-copy the firmware download to the card again before upgrading the next amplifier.

After the software upgrade is complete check that you see the message in the display ‘software update successful, please press front button’.

Remove the SD card and delete all the firmware update files. Copy your configuration files and insert the SD card and power cycle the amplifiers again.

I’d suggest you go back to the configurator and check everything is correct with your configuration and download the configuration files to the SD cards again.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Lincolnlad]

When you update the firmware and dos you should have only the 14 files for the software update on the SD card.

To update the software you need to reset both the master and companion, with the amplifier in standby mode a long press on the front button should reset the amplifier, you should see a message ‘Reset’ and a countdown from 5 seconds.

The other method is to disconnect the amplifiers from the mains supply.

With just the 14 firmware update files on the SD card, insert the card and then power on. Do each unit one by one. If you don’t set the write protect on the SD card you will have to re-copy the firmware download to the card again before upgrading the next amplifier.

Thank you so much - it seems as if I have been doing it very wrong!  I will try tonight again!
After the software upgrade is complete check that you see the message in the display ‘software update successful, please press front button’.

Remove the SD card and delete all the firmware update files. Copy your configuration files and insert the SD card and power cycle the amplifiers again.

I’d suggest you go back to the configurator and check everything is correct with your configuration and download the configuration files to the SD cards again.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Confused]

Today was the first chance I have had to update to the new firmware. Reading the various posts on this thread in the week I was intrigued by @ada 's post regarding a measurable difference in the frequency response with SAM enabled. Maybe something has been tweaked with respect to SAM in the new firmware? As I was updating the firmware anyway, I thought I would try taking REW measurements with SAM set to 0%, 50% and 100%, then repeat after the firmware update. Similar to @Soniclife 's results, I did get some minor differences in the curves, but not much, and the curves in the sub 100Hz area were pretty much identical for any given SAM setting. The curves deviated fractionally at about 500Hz So for me, and with the Blade SAM profile, I have to conclude no significant measurable difference.

Back in subjective mode, and listing to some familiar tracks via my Mutec SOtM kit, I have to say that I cannot decern much difference either.

With that done, I tried Roon RAAT and a quick comparison to Roon integrated AIR. First to say that although Roon RAAT worked, I occasionally I got the "audio file is loading slowly" error message and some stuttering, after which things settled down and the music played without issue. (this was with local 16/44.1 files) A little disappointing, and ironically it reminded me a little of the bad old days with AIR. Anyway, most of the time it worked fine, and yes, it sounds good. In comparison with Roon integrated AIR, I would have to say there is not much in it. At times, I thought I preferred AIR, specifically, there seemed to be a little more bass power and impact. With other music I think I preferred RAAT, this I think is related to the mids, which seemed slightly more pleasant with RAAT, with maybe a slight "digital edge" when back with AIR. To be honest, this is extremely marginal stuff, so I would have to conclude that there is very little in it. I would try changing my router settings (turn off IGMP as advised by @Pim) to mitigate the "audio file is loading slowly" issue, but as I do not intend to use RAAT over the long term, I am reluctant to do this, who knows what else it might upset? I might be wrong, but I suspect that this is little more than early teething troubles and the Roon guys will sort it out, but I have to say it is a little disappointing, and a little puzzling, because with my set-up, streaming Roon RAAT to either my microRendu or sMS-200ultra has worked flawlessly, why should it be different with a Roon ready Devialet?

[David A]

If RAAT makes a difference, and I believe it does, proving that with measurements may not be all that easy.

If it makes an audible difference it will show up in a controlled listening test, and we can go from belief in a difference to knowledge of a difference.  Then it gets really interesting.  Did you say somewhere you are in an audio club, if so getting their help on the double blind part will make things a lot easier.

Putting myself through blind testing was one of the most interesting things I done in audio, and I encourage everyone to have a try at something like flac vs mp3 using a software tool.  I found it a fascinating process being presented with no other input than my ears, and having to trust them alone.

I used to work in health and safety and scientific studies were regular reading for me. In fact, as part of ny tertiary qualifications I was required to design, conduct, and write up a research project of my own and I subsequently presented my findings at a scientific conference and had them published in a peer reviewed journal. Controlled tests are not easy to set up or conduct.

One big problem with A/B listening tests in audio is the fact that audio memory is short and you need to be able to switch between inputs very quickly. That's not possible with a Devialet where you need to cycle between inputs by repeatedly pressing the input button. Even if you only have the ethernet input active you need to cycle through different streaming inputs and it takes more button presses to go from AIR to Roon Ready than from Roon Ready to AIR. You can't do a blind or double blind test that way because the listener can always work out which is A and which is B and actually tell what A and B are if they know how the inputs cycle on a Devialet. The other way to do the switch is to use Roon and switch one zone off then switch the other zone on which also takes time. That rules out a double blind test because the person conducting the test knows what the input is, and it also means you can't give control of the swap to the listener because they will then be able to see which input is in use and you have a sighted rather than blind test. You also can't switch between the same point in the music when switching zones in Roon and that creates another problem. I have no way of conducting a test where the results are going to be any more valid than my conclusions based on my own listening comparisons to date.

People like seeing test results because they can put an end to arguments. They can, but only if there are no arguments about the tests. If there are arguments about the tests then you've got a bigger mess because you have the original arguments and the arguments about the tests and you've actually just made things worse. If you're going to do a test then you need to do the right test and you need to do it extremely well so there's no arguments about what you've done. There are always arguments about amateur listening tests for audible differences in audio and I could not put together a test that isn't amateur standard and that means that whatever results I got aren't going to change anything because all I can do is say that I had so x number of people listen and y of those people heard a difference. That's no better than counting the reports made by those who have reported their listening impressions in this and the couple of other threads here where this is being discussed.

BTW, audible differences don't always show up on controlled listening tests. Some years ago a company claimed to have developed a "watermark" which could be added to the audio signal on CDs to help identify and prevent bootlegging of the music and they claimed their 'watermark' was inaudible. They had conducted controlled tests and they started doing demos at audio shows. The first few demos ended with no evidence that the watermark could be detected but then at one test there was one listener who got it right every time. They asked him what he was hearing and after he told them what he was hearing they themselves could pick it every time. They dropped the "watermark" because it ended up being impossible not to notice despite all the initial controlled listening tests which showed it could not be reliably detected. You can get it wrong even with controlled listening tests.

[Pim]

I've just found myself a way to blind test AIR v RAAT. I've named both zones SAME. The only way to identify now is by the symbol but I honestly don't know which is which. So I can change zones blindly to do a test and then decide which I like before identifying them by going into settings.

Pretty simple and pretty cool. 


   

[Lincolnlad]

When you update the firmware and dos you should have only the 14 files for the software update on the SD card.

To update the software you need to reset both the master and companion, with the amplifier in standby mode a long press on the front button should reset the amplifier, you should see a message ‘Reset’ and a countdown from 5 seconds.

The other method is to disconnect the amplifiers from the mains supply.

With just the 14 firmware update files on the SD card, insert the card and then power on. Do each unit one by one. If you don’t set the write protect on the SD card you will have to re-copy the firmware download to the card again before upgrading the next amplifier.

Thank you so much - it seems as if I have been doing it very wrong!  I will try tonight again!
After the software upgrade is complete check that you see the message in the display ‘software update successful, please press front button’.

Remove the SD card and delete all the firmware update files. Copy your configuration files and insert the SD card and power cycle the amplifiers again.

I’d suggest you go back to the configurator and check everything is correct with your configuration and download the configuration files to the SD cards again.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Many, many thanks - working perfectly now.  Quite simple if you know what you’re doing (which I patently didn’t!).  Thank you again

[Lincolnlad]

Hello, a technical numptie here.  I am trying to put the new software onto my 1000 Pro (with CI board).

I am having great difficulty.

I have downloaded the software onto both the Master and the companion.  I have then (on the same Sd cards) put the configurated files (ie selecting the sources and of course the “daisy chain”.  I only get the sound from the Master, the Companion (which told me I had added new software) says “link status none”

Should I have deleted the new software files off the sd card once it has been downloaded?  Should I put the “configurated” files on a separate sd card?

I have named the various sources (e.g, AES/EBU is Aurender), but these are not being displayed, just the AES/EBU.

Is there anyone who can give me any guidance please?  Very confused.

Many Thanks in advance

It’s best to have a spare SD Card to hold the new firmware files. This way, you keep your configuration files untouched. Download the new firmware files onto the SD Card, then lock the card with the small slider on the side. If you don’t do this, then the Devialet deletes a couple of files when the firmware is loaded, meaning you have to reload them before upgrading the other amp.  
Put the SD Card in the first amp and with the amp turned off, press and hold the power button until you see a countdown in the display, which will start from 5. As soon as it starts the countdown, take your finger off the button. Allow the update to finish. It will tell you when it’s finished and to press the power button. Repeat the same procedure for the second amp. Replace your configuration cards, and you should be good to go. Cycle through the information screens to make sure that each amp is using the same firmware. 
Hope this helps.

Many, many thanks - works perfectly now.  Quite simple if you know what you’re doing (which I patently didn’t!). Thanks again